In the 15 years since it opened this pretty concern has gone from strength to strength, capturing a market that demands the best.

Originally I called in to see Shah Malik and talk about his involvement with the Bangladeshi Caterers Association and its drive to give recognition to Bangladesh as the true origin of some 96 per cent of restaurants we Brits have for years called ''Indian'.

But today, more or less off-duty, I fancied a decent lunch and called a friend to join me at what has become a favourite restaurant..

I was pleased to be able to introduce my friend to some of the best 'Indian' food I'd ever tasted. We weren't disappointed, and this five-star concern which has always done so much for charity, once again seemed to be spreading its goodwill.

While nibbling on pappadums and waiting for our first course to arrive, I looked at the leaflet I'd picked up on the way in and gathered the restaurant is holding a fundraiser for Haiti on Tuesday, March 2 when the entire set dinner price of £25 plus raffle profits go directly to the Red Cross and Oxfam. Of course, Shah had already taken bookings for what promises to be a good night but nonetheless, I made a note in my diary. He'd held similar events for Bangladesh when it was flooded, and another time for a children's charity raising thousands of pounds for the less fortunate.

But we were there to enjoy the food, which has reigned supreme in this neck of the woods for years.

We forsook starters, in favour of pappadums and chutneys, and eventually after much deliberation, chose from the varied menu.

Packed with traditional favourite dishes it included popular Balti dishes originating from Bakistan, on the northwest frontier of Kashmir.

It also features a number of lemon specialities.

Here we have chicken and lamb or chicken and lamb tikka or even prawns or king prawns cooked with spiced lemon. Of medium strength the dishes can be adjusted to give a milder or hotter dish.

Lamb, chicken and seafood come in various guises and spice strengths, but current favourite, apart from chicken tikka, is fish dupiaza.

This proved to be mouthwatering recipe involving Ayr – a tropical Indian fish cooked in a rich sauce with freshly cooked onion. The fish was melt-in-the-mouth, medium hot and a great match with the pilau rice and spinach and potato.

Quite the nicest Bangladeshi fish dish I'd ever tried and one I would highly recommend.

There was no vivid orange colouring with the chicken tikka.

Instead, large chunks of breast meat, clearly charcoal grilled having been marinated in herbs, provided substantial and tender eating.

With freshly made naan and a side salad, it was the best she'd tasted said my well-travelled friend.

"We eat out at least three times a week, and this is quite the best tikka I've ever experienced. I shall be back," she promised and smartly reserved a place for herself and husband for Haiti night.

Tables can still be booked by phoning the restaurant.

Indus is open seven days a week, with lunch from noon to 2.30pm and dinner from 6pm to 11pm. Takeaway service available.

Patsy Payne

At a glance

Reviewer's rating: Five stars

Food: Bangladeshi 'Indian'

Price for two with wine: £40.40

Disabled access: Yes

Service: Helpful and efficient

Bonus: Pretty setting

Indus Restaurant

13 Nork Way

Banstead

01737 371065 / 370816