Offering a unique blend of bar, cafe, restaurant and deli shop, the Jolly Farmers at Buckland, on the A25 between Reigate and Dorking, could not be more appropriately named.

For given the passion of owners Jon and Paula Briscoe to support the use of fresh local produce wherever possible – whether it is sold in their Food Emporium or served in their restaurant – there must indeed be a lot of very happy and jolly farmers in the area.

The couple, both of whom have backgrounds in hospitality and the food trade, are clearly on to a winner, for their award-winning business, with the innovative concept of having a deli within a pub/restaurant setting, selling local produce and open during pub hours, has won a reputation that far transcends the borders of Surrey.

Not so long ago the Jolly Farmers bagged the Countryside Alliance National Rural Retailer of the Year Award for best Diversification, presented at The House of Lords. The couple have also won a national award for helping to promote and support local businesses and farmers. They run two other restaurants but the jewel in the crown has to be the Jolly Farmers.

In the pub you can enjoy wide range of foods which most likely will be on sale in the deli – look out for homemade sausages from Bridge Farm at Lingfield, Norbury Blue cheese from Dorking, or St Joan's Farm Dairy Ice cream from Leigh.

My wife and I dropped in for dinner at The Jolly Farmers one recent Saturday early evening.

We had a pre-dinner drink in the lounge, seated in one of the very comfortable leather couches. The wine list indicated a huge range, with the English wine selection offering a number of wines from the nearby Denbies Wine Estate in Dorking.

Having been shown to our table in the restaurant area, we chose our starters from the Specials menu, both of us going for a cocktail consisting of tiger prawn, baby prawn and crayfish, with fresh lemon, cognac and Marie-Rose sauce (£6.95 each). While waiting for our starters to arrive, we ordered a portion of bread and butter (£2). The first course arrived, and with the prawns unshelled we soon got down to the task of peeling them. An excellent choice, we both felt.

While my wife ordered a rib-eye steak, complete with roasted tomato, mushroom and chips (£17.95) as her main course, I chose Ashtead Fisheries fish pie (£12.95), which consisted of smoked haddock, salmon, crushed potato and 'Sussex charmer crust'. We also ordered a bowl of seasonal veg (£2.50) and an extra serving of hand-cut chips (£2.95). My fish pie arrived piping hot and after my first mouthful I soon realised I had burnt my tongue! That aside, I enjoyed it very much, while my wife pronounced her steak very good.

With the dessert menu boasting at the top that "all of our desserts are made by hand by our team of chefs", it was inevitable that we would indulge. My wife chose sticky toffee pudding with vanilla custard (£5.25), and I chose St Joan's ice cream (a long stemmed glass full of delicious vanilla and chocolate flavours which came in at £4.75).

The Jolly Farmers is a cheese lover's delight with its devoted cheese menu. A four-piece cheeseboard costs £6.95, an eight-piece cheeseboard costs £12.95. Sadly we had to pass, having done very well thus far.

As we prepared to leave I observed that the restaurant was practically heaving, with some very large family groups (and several toddlers) among the night's patrons. The Jolly Farmers comfortably seats more than 100 customers, including a large number in its beer garden.

I couldn't help but notice a large map of Surrey on one wall, with pins strategically stuck in a variety of locations. Each pin represents one of the restaurant's suppliers. It is truly reassuring to find a local business flying the flag for Britain's farmers.

Alf De Araujo

At a glance

Reviewer's rating: Four stars

Cost for two: £62.25 (including desserts but not drinks )

Service charge: No

Wine: Splendid choice

Vegetarian: Varied selection

Parking: Ample space in grounds

Disabled access: Yes

Service: Courteous and professional

Value for money: Yes

Jolly Farmers

Reigate Road

Buckland

Surrey

RH3 7BG

01737 221355