A great makeover for The Sportsman, Lower Kingswood

By dtucknott

Alf de Araujo eats out at the newly extended and refurbished pub, The Sportsman, in Mogador, Lower Kingswood, and finds it offers great services, food and surroundings

There has been a tendency by restaurant and food critics to express fears about the future and longevity of our pubs.

But I believe some pub owners and landlords have raised their game and come out fighting. While some have gone the 'gastro' route, others have refurbished and extended their premises and revamped their menus.

The Sportsman, Mogador, Lower Kingswood, is part of a chain of three under the company name, Time Well Spent, run by husband and wife team Marc and Maureen Jones. They also own The Plough and Attic Room, High Street, Rusper, and the Yew Tree, Reigate Hill.

The couple took ownership of The Sportsman at the end of May and have recently completed a major refurbishment and extension programme.

The spacious bar area has been extensively refurbished and offers a country environment with modern standards of service. The restaurant has undergone an extensive change and is elegant, spacious and typically English.

The Sportsman, at the end of a country lane, has lovely outside garden areas which can seat up to 150 people, and parking for 60 cars.

Marc and Maureen offer an excellent and innovative menu, complemented by an extensive wine list and a popular range of fine house and guest ales

On our arrival one recent Sunday lunchtime we were ushered into the bar area, which seemed to be heaving. We opted to go straight to the split level dining area, which bore all the hallmarks of a high quality restaurant.

We began our meal with a Duo of Smoked Fish starter - smoked trout and mackerel served on a bed of rocket with a lemon and tarragon vinaigrette. Coming in at £5.45 per plate, it was a fairly large portion and a great prelude to our mains.

My wife and I decided not to go for one of the 'lighter options' on offer and instead chose the Aberdeen Angus sirloin steak (£14.95). This was topped with Cashel Irish blue cheese and served on a bed of creamed leeks with butterbeans. Instead of the sauteed herbed new potatoes offered we opted for French fries.

When the course arrived we were given a plate of vegetables, in this case carrots and mange tout. A feast fit for a king.

By now, with both us being rather satisfied, dessert was a mere formality. But we decided to go the whole hog anyway and while my wife ordered a Belgian chocolate truffle torte (£5.95), which came with chocolate sauce and lime clotted cream, I ordered the "real ice cream" - four scoops of different flavoured ice creams from St Joan's Farm, Leigh. It was delicious - in fact, I have to say that was our overall verdict of the entire meal.

The Sportsman, to its credit, has gone upmarket, but it retains its essential charm as a quintessentially English pub, a 'home from home' for its regulars. Its prices remain competitive and value for money. The service is friendly, efficient and leisurely - and given the full house when we were there, very good. But if you are planning to have a meal, make sure you book ahead.

Rating: Four stars

The low-down

Cost for two: £51.70 (not including drinks)

Service charge: Discretionary

Wine: Varied and reasonable selection

Vegetarian: Some options available

Parking: No problem, with a large, well laid out car park

Disabled access: Yes

Service: Helpful, friendly, efficient

Value for money: Yes

The Sportsman

Mogador Road,

Lower Kingswood

01737 246655